Christie Kiley on March 3, 2014 0 Comments Quick Characteristics Winery: Cuvaison Location: Napa Valley, CA Vintage: 2011 One of the things you should keep in mind when out shopping for wine, is to generally stay away from pop culture and what wines are receiving all the hype. Wait, I feel a little of déjà vu. I think I went on a bit of a rant in one of my previous wine reviews about this. But whatever, I’ll do a quick recap. It’s fun. This week, I bring you a Chardonnay. Wait. For all you self-titled ‘ABC’ (Anything But Chardonnay) drinkers out there. I know why you are the way you are. See, I myself at one time was an ABC drinker. I have no shame in admitting that I am a recovering ABC drinker. There. I said it. Almost immediately the pressure of releasing that truth… lifted. Poof! Just like me you were probably sick and tired of chewing on a toothpick with your Chard. The over-oaked stuff was just too sickly, too much! And in turn, it turned you away from Chardonnay perhaps forever. Well, good news! Chardonnay is showing a new face, with less oak. They should think about putting that on their labels, like a big unabashed stamp. Yes, some Chardonnay out in the world hasn’t seen the light, but nor has its consumers. Who are the reason the heavy-oaked stuff is still out there. Here is how I see it. Oak is a lot like salt for cooking. If you use too much of the stuff, your dish is going to be unpalatable and not even enjoyable to eat. If it is used in just the right amounts, it can be wonderful, enticing and interesting. I want you ‘ABC’ drinkers out there to give Chardonnay another chance. No longer should you proudly bestow or share that title with the world. I might just start myself a cause for Chardonnay: OUTC. Open Up To Chard. You all can get the movement going and start with this one! The 2011 Cuvaison ATS Vineyard Chardonnay. For years now, the ATS block Chardonnay has been a cornerstone for the winery and its white wine line-up of the cooler-region Carneros AVA on the Napa side. I have enjoyed a few vintages of the ATS Chardonnay and it is one I always enjoy and just revel in. If this is on my table, chances are only the closest of friends are invited over and there is some serious cooking going on. The menu might consist of a coriander and fennel brine-soaked organic chicken, slow-roasted with a mix of butter and extra-virgin olive oil, stuffed with an al dente pilaf-style risotto with toasted pine nuts and fresh herbs. The juices from the roasting chicken really finish the risotto perfectly. Then I’ll have a side of sautéed brussel sprouts with some onion and garlic and bacon. Oh, I don’t mess around! You gotta do some good for the ATS Chard. This wine is beautiful. I just don’t say that to any wine. The Dijon 809 clone and the fruit from Cuvaison’s Old Wente blocks are the base and definitely are at the heart of it, and it doesn’t fail from vintage to vintage. It is beautifully (I thought I’d go for the adverb this time) toasted with heart-warming aromas of croissant and fresh French bread. Give it a moment and let it open up with a bit of a swirl and it is Christmas in a glass with aromas of warm pumpkin pie spice. Have a sip. The cashmere, silky-like texture is divine and sort of sexy with flavors of fresh peach, oven-baked pear tart. Even some perfume lingers on the finish of delicate spring flowers and those Christmas spices. It has great structure with subtle acidity that keeps it lively and just lingers. I know you will like it. You can admit you are a Chardonnay convert afterwards, it’s ok. Start the movement! More Wine Reviews: Animal Espumante Chardonnay-Pinot Noir 2009 Lions Drift Pinotage from Silkbush Mountain Vineyards 2012 Oakville Sauvignon Blanc from Flora Springs Winery Cakebread Cellars Red Hills 2010 Zinfandel
