Marla Cimini on July 19, 2016 0 Comments A chat with the author of ‘Behind the Bottle: The Rise of Wine on Long Island’ Wine expert and author Eileen Duffy lives and breathes Long Island wines, and has extensive experience residing and working in the area. Over the years, she became captivated by the diversity of wine in this New York region and wrote a book that spotlights its unique history, entitled Behind the Bottle: The Rise of Wine on Long Island (Cider Mill Press). Published last year, Behind the Bottle features a number of winemakers, wineries and vintages that have contributed to the region’s success. As the editor of Edible East End, a local food-focused publication, Duffy has always been passionate about the area’s food and beverage scene. She’s also serious about her wine and holds a Level 4 Diploma from the prestigious London-based Wine Spirit Education Trust (WSET), which requires two years of study. In Behind the Bottle, Duffy highlights this world-class wine region through sharing the winemakers’ philosophies and stories while showcasing a variety of vintages that have been key to the area’s evolution. The wines in the book are truly diverse: Some are fresh off the press, while and others are elegantly aged. Every winemaker in her book chose a favorite bottle from each vintage year, and they all varied greatly and offered their own distinct character – ranging from a 1993 dessert wine to a 2013 early wine and include whites, rosés, reds and sparkling. In a recent interview, Duffy shared some insights of her own, as well as suggestions to first-time visitors to the Long Island wine region. (Note: some of the answers have been edited slightly for space). Why did you decide to write this book about Long Island wine? I have been writing about Long Island wine since 2003. For this book, I spun off a column in Edible East End, where I have been honored to work since 2005. Behind the Bottle covers 17 Long Island-based winemakers and wine growers — from the pioneers to the second generation to the newcomers. They discuss wines they believe are milestones for themselves and the region. How did you prepare for interviewing all the winemakers? Before I interviewed the winemakers for the book, I asked them to choose one of the favorite wines they had personally made – one that they felt was a true milestone either for them or the region. It turned out to be a really good question.. because building a new wine region is a momentous task. Their selections told stories far beyond the wine. I got history, weather reports, and tales of great accomplishments, serendipity and friendship. When interviewing these individuals, I was impressed by the connectedness and six degrees of separation among all the players. What’s so special about wines produced on Long Island? Every wine region is unique because it’s made up of disparate factors like climate, weather and soil composition. So wines made on Long Island will be different from any other wine region in the world. Wines from Long Island are special because they reflect our sense of place, including our sandy loam soils created thousands of years ago by a receding glacier, as well as our maritime climate that was created by the water that surrounds us on all sides (the Atlantic Ocean, Long Island Sound and the Peconic Bays). The grapes that thrive here include Merlot, Cabernet franc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc. Which wineries are best for first-time visitors to Long Island? I know that each winery has something to offer, but always I suggest starting out with two wineries within a half-mile of each other. First, I recommend Bedell Cellars, because it’s one of the more modern wineries with a tasting room filled with modern art. I also think Lenz Winery is a great choice, because it’s one of the more traditional winery with a tasting room in an adapted barn. Visitors can get a feel of where the region came from and where it is going. Which specific wines do you recommend for non-experts who wish to try this wine? Merlot is the go-to grape here with Cabernet franc coming up fast. The past three vintages (2013, 2014, 2015) have all been great, so I recommend that you buy reds from those years. In addition, practically every winery makes a rosé, which is a perfect wine for our cooler climate. The most famous Long Island rosé is the Wölffer “Summer in a Bottle” from the Hamptons. Also, sparkling wine on Long Island is really good (and usually a bargain). For example, Sparkling Pointe on the North Fork makes nothing but sparkling wine. How many wineries are currently on Long Island? Any new / up-and-comers? Right now, there are about 65 producers on Long Island, which include those who only grow grapes and those who buy grapes and make their wine at Premium Wine Group, our custom crush facility. There are other wineries that grow and produce all their wine on site. The establishment of new wineries is slow due to the high land values in the area. However, there are many more producers wishing to start their own labels by buying grapes. Any special wine events that happen in the area that visitors might want to attend? Each year we have a great event, called Harvest East End. This year, it will be held on Saturday, August 20. All the wineries attend and it attracts visitors from near and far. Everyone is welcome — from the casual drinker to the aficionado. Tickets must be purchased in advance, and it’s a fun opportunity to walk around, taste wine and chat with the winemakers to get a real sense of the area. Click here for event and ticket info. Why do you think visitors or residents should purchase your book? I think Behind the Bottle really introduces you to the personalities behind our wine region, the range of wines made here, as well as the history and growth of this diverse region. My book offers a solid, comprehensive guide to the robust selection of wines in the area. Would you like to share some advice for visitors who want to explore the wineries on Long Island? Yes. Definitely get a driver! Public transportation on the East End isn’t great. There are services that will provide drivers for your car, a rental or a ZipCar. If you decide to get a limo — be aware that most wineries want advance notice before you can park in their lot. Are you noticing any wine trends this year? For the moment, it’s all about the cabernet franc, as well as discovering the aging process of Long Island wines. I recommend that when you purchase any of the 2013, 2014 and 2015 reds, consider buying two bottles (at least), so you can put one away and see what it tastes like five years from now. And remember, the chardonnays can age too. In addition, more wineries are also making brandy and hard cider, so there is definitely a bright future here. Learn More: Buy the Book on Amazon Follow Eileen Duffy on Facebook
