John Poplin on December 12, 2016 1 Comment In the depth of winter, many wines are well into their production process. With their harvest and fermentation complete, many of them are either bottled or are hanging out in toasted oak barrels. But for one particular type of wine, the cold winter months are when the fun is just beginning. Writings dating back to the first century A.D. by both Pliny the Elder and a Roman poet named Marcus Valerius Martialis reference wines made from grapes not harvested until after the first frost (or “stiff with frost” by Martialis’ account). Today, the Susa Valley (a region known as Val di Susa at the time) in Northern Italy’s Piedmont region is still home to one of Italy’s few ice wine producing regions. With no records of exactly how those early Roman wines were made, little is known as to whether or not these were indeed the first “ice wines” that we know today. If this is the first you are hearing of ice wines, do not pass go, do not collect $200. Find one stat, because you are missing out. The History of Ice Wine The legend goes that a German winemaker was away from his vineyard during harvest, and that by the time he had returned his grapes were frozen. Though unconventional at the time, he proceeded as per usual and pressed the frozen grapes for fermentation. Thus, ice wine (Eiswein in German) was born. However, actual documentation does exist from Franconia, Germany in 1794 of an Eiswein being made. Actual records from 1830 in Rheinhessen even go on to describe production methods, like when the region suffered a harsh winter and growers had the idea of leaving their grapes on the vine. It was in the 1829 harvest that, though the intent was to use these frozen grapes for livestock, winemakers discovered that the grapes produced a sweet wine when pressed. For the years following, different regions would produce these ice wines only on certain years when Mother Nature allowed them to do so. There really was no standardized method of making these Eisweins. It was really up to the preferred methods of the winemakers along with the assistance of some frigid temperatures. Like all winemaking, inventions and new technology helped Eiswein evolve, and its popularity grew. But even so, the production of ice wine can be tricky, which can make it rather expensive. How Ice Wine is Made Traditional ice wines require a hard freeze, with some regions even requiring temperatures fall below a certain degree mark. This requires that the grape growers leave their grapes on the vine well past other vineyards. This, of course, can create problems. For one, there is the chance of rot, where a crop may be lost in its entirety if a freeze doesn’t occur soon enough in the season. Another problem ice wine producers deal with are animals. Grapes are not only favored by us humans, but birds, boar and other wild animals as well. Because of this, many growers will net their vines in an attempt to protect them. The fruit must be frozen (and still frozen) at the time of pressing, as any warming deteriorates the grapes while the freezing destroys them on a molecular level. However, they can’t be too frozen as it can break the press or prevent the grapes from being pressed at all. Producers work the graveyard shift in not only harvesting the grapes, but also some of the precursor processes to making the wines, typically working in unheated conditions. That being said, there are a few producers that freeze their grapes cryogenically, but laws prevent them from using the term “ice wine,” having to classify them as “ice box” wines instead. Some will say these cryo-wines are “cleaner” than their counterparts, but many of us like the unique qualities of a true, natural ice wine. The higher sugar levels in the frozen grapes make the fermentation process a slower one compared to their still wine counterparts, and the whole frozen element certainly doesn’t speed things up. These contributing factors are what lead to the more expensive price tags on these wines. A 375mL or 500mL bottle usually fetch anywhere from $20 to the triple digits. You may also discover some new grapes when seeking out an ice wine, as while many are made from Riesling, others are made from Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Franc, and a Vidal Blanc; a hybrid grape developed by a French grape breeder in the 1930’s from Ugni Blanc and Rayon d‘Or (which was done to create a winter hearty grape). German Eisweins As stated, Germany has long been a region where Eisweins have and still are made under stricter laws. German wine laws require not only a certain temperature for the grapes, but also the measure of the grape must with what is known as the Oechsle Scale, which measures density. Artificial freezing is prohibited in the country, which means that sometimes there are years when the temperatures don’t drop low enough and no Eisweins are made. Studies have shown that only 5%-10% of the grapes set aside for Eisweins ever make it through production and into a bottle. While they have been some of the best I’ve tasted, they also have been some of the most expensive. Austrian Eisweins Due to their geography, many Austrian Eisweins are similar to those of Germany, though many believe they just don’t have the same aromatics or finesse of their Germany competition. However, these grapes require a slightly later harvest, which gives the grapes more time to ripen, making them sometimes richer and truer to the grapes’ natural characteristics. You’ll also see Eisweins made from some of the country’s well known grape varieties, such as Grüner Veltliner and Zweigelt. Canadian Ice Wines What could be more natural than having an ice wine from the Ice Box of the World? Some of the more commonly seen ice wines on U.S. shelves come from Canada and the Niagara Peninsula region. When I visited, not only did I make it to Inniskillin Estate, but every restaurant in town of Niagara-on-the-Lake seemed to have an ice wine on their list. When in Rome! To many Canadians, ice wines are just as natural as hockey and Timbits. While Lake Ontario helps keep those grapes warm and ripe in the warmer months, the region’s northern location also helps the grapes reach their required eight degrees Celsius for pressing. Here, Vidal Blanc is the most common grape varietal used, accounting for two thirds of their ice wine production. However, some other varietals are used, such as with the Inniskillin sparkling Cabernet Franc ice wine, which is heaven on earth, people. Heaven. On. Earth! The United States, Japan and a handful of other countries also produce ice wines, but due to the elements the wines are limited in production quantities. Ice wine, like many dessert wines, are much smaller pours. They are rich and powerful wines that are best sipped and paired with certain cheeses or dessert. Also, though many will argue over the ability of wine to pair with chocolate, ice wines seem to pair with great ease. In fact, the ice wine flight at Inniskillin can be paired with various bits of chocolate. So whether you’re able to find a less expensive cryogenic “ice box” wine or a true Eiswein, they definitely are a must-have, even if you’re not a fan of the “stickies.”
