15 Overlooked French and Italian Grapes

There are over 5,000 vitis vinifera grapes growing in the world today, and France and Italy are home to most of them. Why, then, do we spend so much time drinking only Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese? Expand your horizons with the following lesser-known French and Italian grapes, all worthy of serious sipping.

France

1. Savagnin (aka Traminer)

The white grape responsible for the Jura’s prized oxidative Vin Jaune wines, savagnin produces powerful, structured whites that can age beautifully over several years. The best non-oxidative styles have lean acidity and wonderful texture, with ripe orchard fruit, wild herb aromas, and incredible minerality. Vin Jaune wines are some of the world’s most coveted, and their nutty, honeyed expression deepens over decades of potential ageing.

• Look for: Domaine Ganevat, Michel Gahier, Jacques Puffeney, Domaine Bourdy

2. Romorantin

The white grape grown exclusively in the tiny Loire Valley appellation of Cour-Cheverny, romorantin produces fierce whites not unlike the above savagnin. A favorite among sommeliers for its versatility and complexity, outside of Cour-Cheverny it’s often blended with sauvignon blanc to lend depth to aromatic whites. It’s an excellent value for dry, mineral-driven white Burgundy alternatives, with orchard fruit and notes of hay.

• Look for: Philippe Tessier, François Cazin

3. Trousseau

Hailing from the eastern Alpine climes of the Jura, Trousseau is a bit of a trickster. The red grape produces light-to-medium-bodied wines with ripe currant fruit up front, but it almost always comes around at the end and brings the funk — barnyard, forest floor, leather. Though it can be a shy grape that needs some time to show itself in the glass, it’s been touted as a Pinot Noir equivalent due to its combination of elegance and complexity. The best come from the village of Arbois, but a few California producers are playing with the grape with good results.

• Look for: Michel Gahier and Domaine Ganevat from France; Arnot-Roberts from California

4. Poulsard (aka Ploussard)

The pale red wines made from poulsard are a treat for their versatility and drinkability. Appearing almost rosé-like in the glass, the thin-skinned poulsard also calls the Jura region its home, and it’s the fun little sister to trousseau’s more serious expression. Light, vibrant, and brambly, with wild herb notes and a peppery nuance, it’s best with a chill alongside charcuterie.

• Look for: Michel Gahier, Philippe Bornard

5. Mondeuse

Another Alpine darling, this time from Savoie. Mondeuse’s aromatic expression coupled with the structure its small berries produce make it a favorite for pairing with game fowl and grilled meats alike. Rustic and peppery with ripe plum notes and ferrous minerality, it’s an excellent side step for Bordeaux and Cabernet Franc lovers, if a bit lighter-bodied from some producers. The best come from old vines in the village of Arbin.

• Look for: Domaine Louis Magnin, Jean-Yves Peron

6. Pineau d’Aunis

This small-berried grape produces light-bodied, wild reds with incredible depth. More often made into summer-worthy, grapefruit-driven rosé, as a red its peppery complexity with bramble and red berry notes make it the perfect, chillable red. The best are found in Touraine, particularly from Jasnières in the north.

• Look for: Jean-Pierre Robinot, Domaine de Bellivière

Italy

7. Pigato (aka Vermentino)

This dry, mineral-driven Ligurian white is all you need to pair with a meal of seafood and vegetables. Briny and savory with fresh orchard fruit notes, it’s a mouth-watering coastal expression of one of the world’s most versatile grapes.

• Look for: Bruna, Punta Crena

8. Ribolla Gialla

This Friulian variety has the potential to make bright, snappy whites with a savory edge as well as deep, rustic orange wines with heady spice and citrus notes. Both are excellent expressions worthy of a second look. The most traditional producers employ clay amphorae for skin contacted orange wines, but the less expensive, modern fermentations are wonderful for a complex un-oaked chardonnay equivalent.

• Look for: Traditional: Radikon, Gravner Modern: Marco Sara

9. Pelaverga

A favorite among the sommelier set, pelaverga is an ancient Piedmontese specialty. Rarely planted anymore, it’s often found blended with barbera and nebbiolo, though a few producers with old vines make single-variety cuvees. On its own, it’s light, aromatic and peppery, with delicate rose petal and black violet notes. The best come from Verduno.

• Look for: Burlotto

10. Petit Rouge

Aromatic and spicy with currant notes, fine tannin and minerality, petit rouge is a wonderful side step for red Burgundy lovers looking to drink outside the box. The best examples are from the Torrette DOC, but many fine examples can be found all over the Valle d’Aosta.

• Look for: Diego Curtaz, Château Feuillet

11. Teroldego

This nearly forgotten red grape from the Trento-Alto Adige zone of the Dolomites was revived by Elisabetta Foradori in the mid-1980s. Today, it’s considered a treasure by sommeliers and wine professionals for its rich fruit, ripe tannin and balanced acidity. Very age-worthy.

• Look for: Foradori

12. Sagrantino

If you’re a bold, powerful red lover, look no further than this tannic Umbrian grape. Ripe cherry notes are balanced by structured leather and tobacco notes. Best when coming from Montefalco, you can find excellent old vine versions all over Umbria. The powerful tannins mean sangrantino wines can age for decades.

• Look for: Paolo Bea, Collecapretta

13. Aglianico

Recently, aglianico has been touted as “the next cabernet sauvignon,” and for good reason: the grape’s full-fruited expression, coupled with its tannic structure and aging potential, make it an attractive substitute, often at a fraction of the cost. The best come from the volcanic soils of Vulture, a sub-zone of Basilicata.

• Look for: D’Angelo, Galardi, Mastroberardino

14. Frappato

Often a blending grape for Nero d’Avola in Siciliy’s well-known Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG wines, frappato has shown promise with lower yields and careful handling in recent years, thanks to a new generation of producers. Dense black cherry and currant notes are enlivened by vibrant acidity and pretty floral notes. Fresh and easygoing.

• Look for: Lamoresca, Occhipinti, COS

15. Nerello Mascalese

Another Sicilian specialty, this time from Mount Etna, the active volcano whose terroir gives wines from this part of the island an incredibly powerful expression. Wines from nerello mascalese can have a delicate aromatic quality or a powerful, earthy one depending on the elevation at which the grapes are grown. Either way, notes of black cherry and licorice abound.

• Look for: Frank Cornelissen, Lamoresca, Calabretta